Sparking Creativity with a Single Sewing Pattern

 Are you ready to dive into new sewing patterns, or do you want to challenge yourself to create something amazing with the ones you already have?

In our example pattern, Vogue 7538 was released in 1968. The sewist noted a similarity to Simplicity 7467, released in March 1976, albeit with a wider neckline and the addition of a ruffled, tiered skirt included in the pattern. 

Here are some ideas based on her notes.

1. Lengthen the blouse to wear over pants

2. Substitute a buttoned cuff instead of elastic at the wrist. How dramatic would this look with a cavalier cuff? A frilled or ruffled cuff? What about an entire wardrobe of detachable cuffs to suit any mood?

 

3. Smock the top of the sleeves or the bodice---or both--- instead of gathering.

4. Use color blocks, prints, or different textured fabrics (e.g., eyelet and cotton voile), which might be a stash-buster if you don't have enough of either fabric!

5. Lengthen the bodice to dress length. Use a 20" zipper for opening or widen the neck for pullover dress.

6. Convert back opening to front opening and self-face or bias-bind. Close with buttons or tie.

7. Add a frill or ruffle to neck.

8. Change the jewel neckline to something else. 

9. Consider fabric choice. Vogue 7538 recommended "soft fabrics such as broadcloth, surah, crepe, and jersey." The sewist suggested voiles and sheers. Simplicity 7467 recommended "crepe, crepe-back satin, crinkled muslin, gauze, challis, chintz, sateen, cotton broadcloth, printed voile, flocked fabric, lightweight knit." How would your fabric choice affect drape and wearability?

10. Consider belts as accessories! A self-fabric or contrasting fabric obi belt or macrame belt would rein in fullness. There are many online obi belt pattern tutorials. Here are a few:

DIY Reversible Obi Belt Tutorial

DIY Trendy Obi Belt

DIY Loewe Denim Obi Corset Belt

Working from a pattern you’ve already sewn gives you so many advantages. You already know what alterations will be required, you understand the fit, and it’s likely to coordinate effortlessly with pieces already in your wardrobe.

The sewist who had Vogue 7538 in her collection wrote notes to herself on the outside of the envelope. What’s your favorite way to experiment with a pattern you already love?

How do you organize or keep track of your sewing projects?

Curvy Girls Sewing Resources

"Ahead of the Curve," by Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette is an informative and helpful book for fitting those who have curves. I was amazed at how beautiful the models in the book were when their clothing was tweaked to fit them better. Even though it was the same pattern, they appeared more polished and stylish. The Fit Clinic photos in the book are eye-opening! I was able to check the book out of my public library, but if it's not available from your public library or you don't have the funds to buy your own copy (it does come with five patterns: Kersoe Top, Honeybourne Dress, Stanway T-shirt, Foxhill Dress, and Magna Pants). 

The Kersoe Top is your foundation for practicing FBAs and SBAs and creating a tried-and-true pattern for future dart manipulations and techniques. The Honeybourne Dress expands on this foundation by introducing a sleeve and gathered skirt using woven fabrics. The Foxhill Dress is a sleek affair with princess seaming and a gored skirt made up in ponte knit or scuba fabric. The Stanway T-shirt is a raglan t-shirt, a notoriously difficult style for fitting those with large busts, but you'll learn how to master fit with this! Finally, the Magna Pant is a woven fabric slim-leg trouser pattern with an elasticized back waist and optional side zip. Everything you need for a capsule wardrobe can be found here---shorts from the Magna Pant, mounting a waistband or casing for the skirt portion of the Honeybourne Dress, lengthening the Kersoe Top into a tunic...you are only limited by your imagination and willingness to improvise! 

If you don't have funds to buy the book or can't get the book from your local library, here are online resources that can fill some of the gaps.

Curvy Sewing Collective 

This site provides tutorials, pattern reviews, and lists of plus-sized pattern companies. You can check out their blogroll for curvy sewists, join the Curvy Sewing Collective on Facebook, and even learn how to talk respectfully about size. 

Cashmerette This site provides tutorials, sewing patterns, and sewalongs for select patterns. If you need advice on how to cover the girls, this is where to begin. 

 YouTube Sites for practical sewing advice and support 

Alexandra Morgan (In-House Patterns) 

ThriftyStitcher (Claire-Louise Hardie) 

Threads Sewing 

Instagram: Get more ideas on how other sewists are creating! 

@Cashmerette 

#CurvySewing 

#CSCMakes 

#PlusSizeSewing

If you're looking for a diverse and inclusive community of sewists, consider attending one of our Neighborhood Group meetings! You can find more information on our Neighborhood Group page (we conveniently place our NGL contact information here, too!) or check out the current Neighborhood Group topics on Meetup. You can attend up to two meetings to see if ASG membership is right for you. 

"Tweak Your Pattern" Workshop on May 7th, 2022 (Zoom Workshop)

 

On Saturday, May 7th, the Northern Virginia Chapter of the ASG will present the second half of our Measure Up! Workshop.

Bonnie Firestone and Kathy Saladino will show you how to use the measurements you took in the first workshop on March 10th.  

You will learn how to apply them to your basic commercial pattern.  

You will learn the first step to get your commercial pattern to fit before sewing your first muslin.  

Master these techniques and each project will start much closer to your ideal fit! No more wadders, no more UFOs, no more tears. Well, we may just solve the fitting problem; we can't solve seam ripper problems...

Don't forget---if you missed the first half of the Measure Up! Workshop, you can find the recording on GroupWorks.  Just scroll back in the posts to "Measure Up Workshop Recording" date March 10th.

GroupWorks is a secured site and a benefit of membership in the American Sewing Guild. Membership information is available on the ASG site and is $50 initially and $45 for renewals.

THERE IS HOMEWORK FOR THE MAY CLASS.  

To be prepared for this next step, there is homework.  As we all know, doing your homework ahead means more time to focus on the topic and get more done!

 ***Supply list, Zoom link, and additional information will follow soon.***

HOMEWORK:

Find a pattern with the following criteria:

• ·     Blouse or dress for WOVEN fabric only
• ·     Must have a side bust dart – may have other darts.
• ·     No yokes (darts are sometimes hidden here)
• ·     No drop shoulders
• ·     May be sleeveless.

Preparation for program:

1. Trace your pattern onto Pellon or tissue (cross and dot, medical exam paper, Swedish tracing paper, Palmer Pletsch Perfect Pattern Paper, etc.). You can use a pencil or pen for this.
   
   
2. Trace seam allowances. Seam allowances are typically 5/8 inches. A double wheel tracing wheel will work well for this. You can use your tape measure, a ruler, or tracing paper and your tracing wheel to make quick work of this step and the step below for markings. 
   
   
3. Trace all markings. These include notches, darts, apex (bust) point, lengthen/shorten lines, waist and hip line, center front, and back, as applicable.
   
   
4. Extend the length of the pattern 10” down from the waistline.

Simplicity patterns are on sale April 21-24, and Butterick and Vogue patterns are on sale April 28-May 1 at Joann's. In case you have no patterns in your stash, here are examples of patterns that comply with the criteria posted above:

Butterick 6710

McCalls 8161

New Look 6707

Simplicity 9386

Vogue 8772

If you have any questions about this workshop or have questions about membership in the American Sewing Guild, feel free to comment below!